I had the most incredible summer! I finally fulfilled a long-held dream of going off the grid and taking a trek into nature; away from wifi or cell phone signals and the creature comforts we are so used to. And it was all because I found the perfect people to do it with: a group of 5 amazing women, avid trekkers, some recent converts, who have discovered a passion for remote trekking and vow to seek a new adventure every year! And, of course, beautiful Pakistan is the perfect setting for this journey.
They are in their late fifties to mid-sixties; they have raised wonderful families, some are grandmothers, they are all working professionals with a can-do energy, deep appreciation for nature and zest for life that is truly inspiring!
After our return to Karachi, I sat down with them to ask what motivates them to push themselves out of their comfort zone and take on the challenges which most women of their situation, at least in Pakistan, would shy away from. I started with Sufya Umar who was the first to take the leap of faith. And then she took her friends along with her.
Sufya teaches A level Economics and is a running and fitness enthusiast. She also dotes on her two Shihtzu dogs and would fill her home with canines if she could.
So how did this all begin?
Sufya: A close friend showed me pictures of her trek and I was struck by the amazingly happy looking people in the most stunning settings. And I just thought ‘ why can’t I do this?’
I was absolutely determined and my first trek was with the same friend, just the two of us, we went to Deosai with the excellent Himalayan Holidays team. It was an out of the world experience! Not what I expected, I was completely out of my depth, at the mercy of nature… The only thing one can expect is the unexpected.
I was completely uninitiated and it was a very intense experience, veering from the sublime – with vistas to make the heart sing and every pore come alive – to other times I felt sick and cold. The nights were tough; I think I was suffering from altitude sickness for which one can easily take measures beforehand but I didn’t know that then. I would be questioning my sanity, but the strange thing was that every morning, as soon as the sun rose, I was full of enthusiasm and ready to start again.
My second and third trips were with the current group to Nanga Parbat base camp and this year to Naltar Valley. We have been close friends for a long time and we will do this every year God willing. I am in my 60s and I want to do this for as many years as God allows me.
Huma Kazi works in the administration of a Karachi school. She is keen on yoga and fitness.
Huma: It started for me when I saw Sufya’s pictures; it was so interesting and different from how we usually travel or vacation. And it made her so happy, she was my inspiration. And doing this with a group of such close friends was the other pull. But I had never imagined I would do something like this. And when I actually went there, it was so beautiful, jaw dropping… I can’t even describe the feeling. As Sufya said, expect the unexpected, keep an open mind, thank God for whatever comes your way and it’s a fantastic experience.
Aamira Rizvi is Director of Operations at a Karachi school. She enjoys fitness training and is an avid cyclist.
Aamira: At 60 I have re-defined what it means to embrace life and adventure, proving that age is just a number. My journey touched a high point (literally) with the ambitious goal of reaching Everest Base Camp (which I achieved along with my husband last year) This was a dream which ignited my passion for high-altitiude trekking. In 2019, I successfully reached the Nanga Parbat Base Camp and in October 2023, I completed the Rakaposhi Base Camp trek.
Most recently, I joined my friends on the Naltar valley trek. It was one of the most enthralling and memorable trips. This is something we don’t normally do; testing one’s limits, conquering oneself. And to do this with like-minded friends was so much fun. We let our hair down and savoured every moment. Each day was filled with laughter, adventure and countless memories strengthening the bond we share.
The sudden and unexpected death of my dearest brother has completely changed my perspective on life. You only live once, live it to the fullest. And thank Allah for all our blessings.
Sadia Muzaffar is a retired banker. She has a 37 year career of working in various banks of Pakistan behind her.
Sadia: I come from a family of shikaris (hunters) and would tag along with my grandfather on his trips. So the outdoors, nature, trekking is all part of my DNA. I was always interested in sports as well and, honestly, if a platform existed to nurture talent back then, I would have been on some national team. Then life happened in the process of getting educated. I found my life partner, got married, juggled a career and home etc.
I always wanted to do this but had no clue how to go about it. So when my friend Sufya presented the opportunity, I seized it. In fact, I kept harassing her about it (laughs). We put forth the plan to go to Nanga Parbat Base Camp, from the Rupal village side; its called the Herrligkoffer base camp, and out of a group of ten friends, four of us got on board.
My family was sceptical, (I had a bad ankle) but my daughters were very supportive and I was not to be deterred. I jumped all the hoops and crossed the hurdles and made it. And when we turned that ledge and beheld the mountain, that white capped beauty, the moment was indescribable. I felt like I could reach out and touch it. We were very lucky because the Nanga Parbat peak is mostly shrouded in clouds. But we found two absolutely clear days and got spectacular views. And the sunrise! It was as if someone had poured liquid gold over the peak. Sublime!
That whole trip was so off the beaten track; 4 women, 4 donkeys, the porters and guides whom we didn’t really know… but not for a second did we feel scared. In case of any trouble, we were at least 2 days away from any help or communication. Being so cut off has another feeling and sleeping on the floor literally grounds you. Makes one thank the Almighty for all his blessings.
Romana Ahmad is an educator who is co founder of the Study Centre, a specialized after school centre which offers support to children with varying needs and abilities.
Romana: I was born and brought up in Kenya, a land that shaped so much of who I am. Growing up, I was surrounded by wildlife, wide open spaces and adventure right at our doorstep. Trekking was second nature to me. The outdoors was not just a backdrop to my childhood, it was a way of life.
Over the years, life’s responsibilities pulled me away from that part of myself. For a while, I lost touch with the joy of being in nature. But then, by the most wonderful twist of fate, my incredible friends re-connected me with a very important part of myself. With patience and no judgement, they helped me find my wings which were tucked away somewhere.
Sufya was the mentor, and I learned to let go and love my new-found follower status. While trekking I leave behind the noises in my life and find purpose and rhythm within myself.
Sufya: All of us have had the opportunity to travel to many countries. But some of the most beautiful places, where God really speaks to you, those can only be reached on your own two feet. Those are the experiences I am looking for and that is what the treks give me. You have to work for it, your feet have to carry you; you need emotional, mental and physical strength …and then the achievement and satisfaction is another high.
Aamira: On our recent Naltar trek, there was a rainstorm one night. It was pouring and the wind was raging; yet I was completely at peace in my tent. Not for a minute did I feel scared.
Tell us a little about the Everest trek. Was it very challenging?
It was because I became very sick right at the start. But I was turning 60 that year and felt it was now or never; my husband and I were the oldest people in the group. Fortunately, the others were so supportive, they told me to rest it out and hydrate and I was fine the next day and running over the suspension bridges, absolutely in the zone. However, after 4000 metres, it became very challenging because oxygen is low. Each step was difficult but the connection with God was overwhelming; something changed inside of me. And on reaching base camp, I just felt it was all due to the Almighty.
Sadia, you struggled with a bad ankle on the Nanga Parbat trek and with a bad knee on the Naltar trek. How do you do it?
Sadia: Just sheer determination! Come what may I won’t be held back. You know, on the Nanga Parbat trek my shoe broke right at the start of the trek. Our guide tied it with some string and later stitched it when we stopped to camp. I made it through the rest of the trek in those shoes. The worst bit was on the way back which was downhill, I felt like I couldn’t take another step but kept pushing. I was much slower than the others but our guide Fida stayed with me. When we reached Rupal village, I threw the shoes away. Then Fida’s little daughter fetched me a bowl of icy cold water from the stream and I dunked my feet in there for relief.
Sufya: In Deosai, I had some terrible nights struggling with nausea, I stepped into Yak dung, fell into a stream… but I would do it all again.
Huma: It’s all so beautiful. You don’t even feel like sleeping. You don’t want to remove yourself from the natural beauty. Give me those views and a cup of tea… what more could one want.
Aamira: On the Naltar trek, the vistas just kept getting better and better as we trekked higher. The incredible lakes, the forests, the meadows dotted with streams and wildflowers…
Romana: I remember sitting before the lake and just absorbing the beauty or watching the goats prancing on the slopes for hours.
Aamira: And don’t forget the two birthdays we celebrated! Our wonderful camp cook Behram baked cakes in the middle of nowhere with no oven and minimal ingredients
Sufya: We are very lucky to have such a wonderful team to trek with. Himalayan Holidays is amazing. They are all so professional, yet all our trips feel very organic and the team feels like family.
Sadia: Unfortunately, Pakistani women don’t trek. On the way to Rupal, we stopped at a roadside tea spot where we met some boys returning form a camping trip. We started chatting with them and when they learnt our ages, they were amazed. The reaction was ‘that’s how old our mothers are. They would never do this.’ (laughs)
Aamira: I’m so proud of the fact that we look after ourselves. I want to go on these treks again and again. Each time one comes back renewed.
