Sunlight hits the majestic columns of Khalikdina Hall, castings tall shadows on the ground. It is a crisp winter morning and we bask in the warmth of the sun as we stand in the porch feeling dwarfed by the imposing dimensions of the building; the soaring columns are topped by a massive triangular pediment in the classical style.
The last time we visited Khaliqdina Hall was to get our Covid vaccinations. This time we are visiting after its most recent restoration under a collective project undertaken by Numaish Karachi and the Karachi Municipal Corporation. The restoration has been funded by the British Council’s cultural Protection Fund.
History
Completed in 1906, this magnificent example of Palladian architecture is named after Ghulam Hoosain Khalikdina, a wealthy merchant and philanthropist, who contributed 18,000 rupees for the construction of a cultural space and library for Muslims. The remaining sum of 15,000 rupees was given by the KMC . Designed by the Jewish architect Moses Somake, who has many of Karachi’s most beautiful historic buildings to his credit, the Grecian style structure was a nod to the Greek centers of learning and discourse.
Over the years, the Hall has seen many gatherings and events but most notably, it was the scene for the sedition trial of the Ali brothers, Maulana Muhammad Ali and Maulana Shaukat Ali Jauhar, for their role in the Khilafat Movement. After partition, meetings of the Muslim League were also held here.
In more recent years, Khalikdina Hall echoed with the lamentation associated with Ashura as majalis, addressed by eminent Islamic scholars, were held here in the first ten days of Muharram. Also, since 1951, the building has housed the offices of the Student Welfare Organization which distributes free text books and school supplies to needy students.
But the building and library remained largely unused and nowhere near to fulfilling its cultural or historic potential. Khalikdina Hall was recently adopted by Numaish, an inter-disciplinary collective which seeks to open up and revive public spaces. The brainchild of communications designer, professor, author and researcher, Saima Zaidi, Numaish has successfully executed several cultural projects in Sindh, Khyber Pakhtunkhwa and in the walled city of Lahore. “We act as a catalyst,” says Saima. “The aim is to involve local communities and create cultural retreats, to melt barrier and bring people together in inclusive spaces.”
Restoration
To help her with this massive task, Saima teamed up with Durriya Kazi, who also wears several hats as an artist, teacher, landscaper and researcher.
“Durriya and I were actually searching for a library and that’s how we stumbled upon Khalikdina Hall,” says Saima. There was certainly an element of serendipity involved since Durriya Kazi is also the maternal great grand-daughter of Maulana Muhammad Ali Jahuar. The family threa makes the project all the more meaningful and personal . “But that’s not why I thought of Khalikidina Hall, “ smiles Durriya. “I wasn’t thinking on those lines at all. But some things are just meant to be. It was his death anniversary on January 4th and we marked it with a small prayer here.“
“This is actually the first time we have taken on a restoration project,” reveals Saima when asked about this mammoth task which is still underway. “In this case, the structure itself needed attention and had to be restored to its glory before it could be reclaimed as a cultural space.” The massive doors and arched windows are now polished and gleaming with the original brass handles and latches. A resplendent chandelier dominates the main hall; designed by Karachi-based artist Muzammil, it comprises a ring of calligraphic script which is lit up.
But the most significant and poignant addition to the hall is the original witness stand used in the sedition trial of the Ali brothers. Retrieved from a KMC warehouse, the stand has been repaired and replaced in its historic setting; a silent time traveler.
Cultural Events
Already, several musical events, a mushaira, art exhibitions and other cultural events have been held here. These events have been curated by the Reading Room, an initiative to keep cultural activity at the Hall alive.
Library
Durriya is largely responsible for the restoration of the library. “There were about 2000 books here, 500 of which were clearly rare, heritage books.” “They have all been fumigated and repaired and are currently being scanned. The aim is set up an open source digital library which is accessible to everyone. “ Durriya hopes to build up the digital library, adding maps, photographs and other documentation about Karachi. The library space at the Hall itself will be air-conditioned and manned by a librarian and some computers. “We envisage a quiet place where people can come and study or work,” says Durriya who emphasizes the need to give back to the local community.
But how will they ensure that the space is kept alive? Too often we see projects running their course and re-claimed spaces lapsing into disuse once again. “We would like to identify local community leaders who will take this forward,” says Durriya. “Everyone who has worked on this project has done it with their hearts and souls. And we are constantly finding people who will help us further,” says Saima who is hopeful that the project will continue as a public-private partnership.
Photos by Naeema Kapadia
